I've been toying with a variant of this project for my Honeywell home air filters. I have one in all my "big" rooms, and I like to keep them running at a low speed most of the day.
But I also have time-of-day energy pricing, and it would be nice to automatically turn off (or at least slow) my air filters during the 5pm-8pm window. This project inspires me to at least look into the feasibility of adding that functionality myself.
Depending on your air filter you might be able to just use a smart plug, I went down a similar route this summer before realizing that mine would remember their power state and settings when powered off.
So now I just have them plugged into a few smart plugs with automations in homeassistant
That's exactly what I did :) and a convenient thing I realised afterwards is that the push-button function of the rotary encoder gives me the ability to turn the thing on and off with my foot!
I don't like the notion of doing speed control by putting a digipot in series with a motor. It worked because the fan happened to be low enough power but it doesn't seem like the author gave thought to the power handling capability of the digipot. If the fan happened to be beefier he's letting the smoke out with this design.
Plus, this is more complicated than just doing PWM.
Based on the description of the wiring to the motor (24V, GND, POT1, POT2, NC), it doesn't sound like the original setup would have been drawing much power through the pot either -- there's probably something else on the other end of that wire that is doing modulation based on the sense resistance, and the motor is itself drawing power from the 24V line. So while it's true that there should be a check for the allowable limits on the digipot, I don't think it's actually being used to sink much power.
Hey, author here. That's correct. The potentiometer has 5V going through it, with a current range of 30-164μA, which fell within limits of the digipot. I opted to use the digipot instead of my own PWM because something else must be doing PWM closer to the motor, where I didn't want to go modifying.
>Everything joined up via a 2-pin and 5-pin connector on the PCB. From there, it was a straightforward matter of measuring voltages and continuity to work out what connected to what: the 2-pin connector was offering 24V DC. The 5-pin connector was what went off to the motor itself. Two of its pins were passing through the 24V DC and ground directly. Two more pins were connected to the potentiometer. The fifth pin was not connected.
> there's probably something else on the other end of that wire that is doing modulation based on the sense resistance
And it would have been great if that arbitrary assumption had been tested by the OP and the results were documented in the article so that they wouldn't come off as somewhat clueless as to the limitations of their design.. oh well.
I purchased a Phillips fan in a shopping spree. It was hot outside, needed something, did not pay much attention beyond that it worked and was not noisy.
At home my eyebrows went halfway on my forehead seeing that there is a remote and the remote is supposed to be my mobile! Need to download the app for it, connect the fan to the Wifi, but it also had bluetooth for some reason. No way Jose!
Yet, it was so incredibly stupid like 4K zoom camera in a hammer that I had to try. Carefully. Data collection notice in the app shop is not promising, not at all. Location data, ID, I do not remember in full but perhaps contacts too? Unsure, but a lot. Anyway, will not enable access to most, airplane mode on, no bluetooth device in sight, so went ahead and installed the app, router disconnected from the internet, then run it.
First thing: refusing access to location. App: sorry, you cannot use me if I cannot access your location, network, and my mothership. And it stops. Big laugh, delete the whole thing. Leaving feedback for other customers about this incredibly stupid intrusion.
Then I got answer from Phillips! Something along the line: "This is for the best interest of our customers, we need your precise location so we can share personalized pollen and climate data and whatnot, we absolutely must insist this!"
For a fan!
Meanwhile the fan has physical buttons on it, can adjust speed, timer, and the cycle. Not completely useless. However some buttons need two press to register the action once. Beeps twice, does thing once. Likely some interference with The App, need to make sure that I am in the same room with the fan with a warning press and then the real press, or whothef knows what was in the head of these guys when they put this piece of thing together!? But really, are they nuts? Ruining use along pollen data?!
Are we already living the movie Idiocracy when it is about the Phillips product design department?! Did they loose all sense with reality? I am sure they already pushing through some new AI function for this very fan and are sad that mine cannot connect to the mother ship through satellite or something just so the update can be pushed to it learning my breath patterns for optimal fan speed. They are nuts! They are nuts!
Hey, author here. There's a line in the digipot datasheet that says the voltage on the A/B/W pins must be within -0.3V to VDD + 0.3V. The fan's line for the wiper pin is 5V, which would fall well outside of that if I gave the digipot's VDD 3.3V.
Fair point, I hadn't thought to consider that aspect of the ESP8266. I mainly opted for the shiny new ESP32-C6 with the idea that I might one day set it up to use Thread instead of WiFi.
I love upgrading simple home appliances with homebrew smarts using ESPHome so that they retain their original interface. I've mostly done lights that are still correctly switched at the original wall switches but up next is my fan and toaster oven! Then to tackle the thermostats.
IMO anything with unnecessary digital interfaces is already down the path.
I have a Vornado fan that I would love to automate with a simple wifi-enabled plug, but due to the digital on/off/speed button, when you cut-off and restore power to the device, it stays off. If it had a dumb analog dial or switch, it would both be fine for normal use, and could be easily, cheaply made "smart."
They do sell wifi-enabled fans; none of them are in a form factor that would fit in my window.
I've been toying with a variant of this project for my Honeywell home air filters. I have one in all my "big" rooms, and I like to keep them running at a low speed most of the day.
But I also have time-of-day energy pricing, and it would be nice to automatically turn off (or at least slow) my air filters during the 5pm-8pm window. This project inspires me to at least look into the feasibility of adding that functionality myself.
Depending on your air filter you might be able to just use a smart plug, I went down a similar route this summer before realizing that mine would remember their power state and settings when powered off.
So now I just have them plugged into a few smart plugs with automations in homeassistant
Why not just use a dumb timer plug from a hardware store?
Ten bucks, and completely hacker-proof: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electri...
$16 if you need a remote control: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electri...
Or $17 if you want to get all digital and fancy: https://www.acehardware.com/p/3001323
The next step would be to monetize it with ads, and put some of the features behind a monthly subscription.
Premium oscillation package, only $9.99 a month.
Need $150 a month to add SSO though
ESPHome and homeassistant have been really great, just like a nice breath of fresh air in a world of cloud saas stuff.
This is amazingly cool. Did you consider putting a rotary encoder on the PCB to maintain local control over the speed?
That's exactly what I did :) and a convenient thing I realised afterwards is that the push-button function of the rotary encoder gives me the ability to turn the thing on and off with my foot!
I don't like the notion of doing speed control by putting a digipot in series with a motor. It worked because the fan happened to be low enough power but it doesn't seem like the author gave thought to the power handling capability of the digipot. If the fan happened to be beefier he's letting the smoke out with this design.
Plus, this is more complicated than just doing PWM.
Based on the description of the wiring to the motor (24V, GND, POT1, POT2, NC), it doesn't sound like the original setup would have been drawing much power through the pot either -- there's probably something else on the other end of that wire that is doing modulation based on the sense resistance, and the motor is itself drawing power from the 24V line. So while it's true that there should be a check for the allowable limits on the digipot, I don't think it's actually being used to sink much power.
Hey, author here. That's correct. The potentiometer has 5V going through it, with a current range of 30-164μA, which fell within limits of the digipot. I opted to use the digipot instead of my own PWM because something else must be doing PWM closer to the motor, where I didn't want to go modifying.
You're right, I didn't read thoroughly enough.
>Everything joined up via a 2-pin and 5-pin connector on the PCB. From there, it was a straightforward matter of measuring voltages and continuity to work out what connected to what: the 2-pin connector was offering 24V DC. The 5-pin connector was what went off to the motor itself. Two of its pins were passing through the 24V DC and ground directly. Two more pins were connected to the potentiometer. The fifth pin was not connected.
> there's probably something else on the other end of that wire that is doing modulation based on the sense resistance
And it would have been great if that arbitrary assumption had been tested by the OP and the results were documented in the article so that they wouldn't come off as somewhat clueless as to the limitations of their design.. oh well.
From the HN guidelines:
> Be kind. Don't be snarky. Converse curiously; don't cross-examine. Edit out swipes.
> Don't be curmudgeonly. Thoughtful criticism is fine, but please don't be rigidly or generically negative.
I actually like this idea. Makes more sense than smart fridges. Would be cool if this ESPHome thing worked with RP2350/Rpi Pico 2.
Could tie it to a thermometer and turn it on automatically on hot days. Very cool.
I think this is the opening to a Korean horror movie...
I purchased a Phillips fan in a shopping spree. It was hot outside, needed something, did not pay much attention beyond that it worked and was not noisy.
At home my eyebrows went halfway on my forehead seeing that there is a remote and the remote is supposed to be my mobile! Need to download the app for it, connect the fan to the Wifi, but it also had bluetooth for some reason. No way Jose!
Yet, it was so incredibly stupid like 4K zoom camera in a hammer that I had to try. Carefully. Data collection notice in the app shop is not promising, not at all. Location data, ID, I do not remember in full but perhaps contacts too? Unsure, but a lot. Anyway, will not enable access to most, airplane mode on, no bluetooth device in sight, so went ahead and installed the app, router disconnected from the internet, then run it.
First thing: refusing access to location. App: sorry, you cannot use me if I cannot access your location, network, and my mothership. And it stops. Big laugh, delete the whole thing. Leaving feedback for other customers about this incredibly stupid intrusion.
Then I got answer from Phillips! Something along the line: "This is for the best interest of our customers, we need your precise location so we can share personalized pollen and climate data and whatnot, we absolutely must insist this!"
For a fan!
Meanwhile the fan has physical buttons on it, can adjust speed, timer, and the cycle. Not completely useless. However some buttons need two press to register the action once. Beeps twice, does thing once. Likely some interference with The App, need to make sure that I am in the same room with the fan with a warning press and then the real press, or whothef knows what was in the head of these guys when they put this piece of thing together!? But really, are they nuts? Ruining use along pollen data?!
Are we already living the movie Idiocracy when it is about the Phillips product design department?! Did they loose all sense with reality? I am sure they already pushing through some new AI function for this very fan and are sad that mine cannot connect to the mother ship through satellite or something just so the update can be pushed to it learning my breath patterns for optimal fan speed. They are nuts! They are nuts!
Why is there level conversion though if the digipot (MCP4141) is 2.7V to 5.5V?
Personally I'd just use breadboard, it's just a 8 pin IC and a ESP module, for a one-off hack..
Hey, author here. There's a line in the digipot datasheet that says the voltage on the A/B/W pins must be within -0.3V to VDD + 0.3V. The fan's line for the wiper pin is 5V, which would fall well outside of that if I gave the digipot's VDD 3.3V.
Thanks. Thinking more about that, might have been easier to just use 5V tolerant esp8266 :)
Fair point, I hadn't thought to consider that aspect of the ESP8266. I mainly opted for the shiny new ESP32-C6 with the idea that I might one day set it up to use Thread instead of WiFi.
I love upgrading simple home appliances with homebrew smarts using ESPHome so that they retain their original interface. I've mostly done lights that are still correctly switched at the original wall switches but up next is my fan and toaster oven! Then to tackle the thermostats.
Oh no don’t tell vornado this is possible and give them an enshittificafion pathway for their products
IMO anything with unnecessary digital interfaces is already down the path.
I have a Vornado fan that I would love to automate with a simple wifi-enabled plug, but due to the digital on/off/speed button, when you cut-off and restore power to the device, it stays off. If it had a dumb analog dial or switch, it would both be fine for normal use, and could be easily, cheaply made "smart."
They do sell wifi-enabled fans; none of them are in a form factor that would fit in my window.
I'm not even alone in this gripe, lots of other maniacs have done the hard work of conversions. Unfortunately I'm not confident enough in my soldering skills to try :\ https://www.reddit.com/r/electrical/comments/vaiskf/bypass_p...